Best Smart Lighting Systems With Color Scenes

If you want color scenes inside the house, the SikSog 4-inch RGBCW recessed downlight is the best overall pick for most homes: it drops into a standard 4-inch can or clips into drywall as a canless fixture, ships with a junction box, puts out 1,080 lumens of white light plus full RGB color, and runs over 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi with no hub to buy. If your target is the outside of the house, the AMURTH 600FT RGB+IC permanent outdoor light set is the one to beat — 600 feet of IP67 addressable lighting is enough to wrap the eaves and soffits of a two-story home in per-segment color effects, and it behaves more like permanent architectural lighting than a seasonal string. Budget shoppers lighting a smaller roofline should look at the AMURTH 100FT version of the same family, while anyone washing a yard, driveway or facade in color should read the two flood light sections before buying, because an 800W-equivalent flood is a very different animal from an eave light. The short version: indoor color scenes are best served by a Wi-Fi downlight you can buy in a six-pack, outdoor color scenes are best served by an addressable eave run, and task-grade color washing needs a flood.

Top 3 Picks

Best overall: AMURTH 600FT RGB+IC Permanent Outdoor Lights

This is the pick that delivers the widest range of color scenes with the fewest compromises. At 600 feet with per-chip addressable RGB+IC control, it supports gradients, chasing effects, and separate color zones along different sections of the roofline rather than one flat color for the whole house. The IP67 rating and permanent-mount hardware mean it is designed to stay up year-round, and the app-plus-remote combination covers both scheduled scenes and quick manual overrides. It suits a homeowner who is lighting the whole exterior once and wants it to look intentional.

Best budget: SikSog 4-Inch RGBCW Recessed Downlight

Recessed color lighting is the cheapest route to genuine scene-based lighting because each fixture is inexpensive and you only buy as many as you need. The SikSog’s 12W, 1,080-lumen RGBCW engine gives you both tunable white and saturated color from the same can, so a room can be warm at 2700K for dinner and magenta for a party without a second fixture. It suits renters-adjacent remodels, basements, home theaters and anyone building a scene system one room at a time.

Best for weather-exposed landscape color: Taptoron Smart RGB IP66 Flood Light

Flood lights live in the worst positions on a property — near grade, in sprinkler spray, under gutter drip lines. The Taptoron’s IP66 rating is the relevant spec here, and its smart RGB control means yard scenes can be triggered from the same app or voice routine as the rest of the house. It suits driveways, facades, tree uplighting and any placement where water jets are a realistic threat rather than a theoretical one.

Quick Comparison

The five systems below split into two families that rarely compete directly: ceiling fixtures for interior scenes, and exterior fixtures for facade and eave color. Within the exterior group, eave lights and flood lights are not interchangeable — eave lights create a continuous colored line along a roofline, while floods throw a broad wash across a surface. Buying the wrong family is the most common mistake in this category, so match the row to the surface you are actually lighting before comparing anything else.

Price tiers here are relative bands, not quotes — budget-tier fixtures and short runs generally sit in the low tens to roughly eighty dollars, mid-range single flood lights sit above that, and premium whole-house runs climb into the several-hundred-dollar band because you are paying for hundreds of feet of addressable lighting, multiple power supplies and mounting hardware. Budget-tier exterior runs are not worse lighting; they are simply shorter, and a 100-foot run that exactly fits your roofline will outperform a 600-foot run you only half use.

How We Chose

Selection was driven by published specifications and category fit rather than by any physical evaluation. Each product had to state enough on its own listing to judge it: a lumen figure, a wattage, an aperture or run length, an IP rating where relevant, and a named control method. Products that describe themselves only in marketing language — “brilliant colors,” “easy setup” — without a number attached were set aside, because color scene systems live or die on measurable things like lumens per fixture, addressability, and whether the control layer is Wi-Fi, Bluetooth or hub-based.

The second filter was category fit. A recessed downlight and a permanent eave run solve different problems, so they were judged against different standards: cutout size, junction box inclusion and white-light quality for the interior fixture; run length, segment addressability and waterproofing for the exterior runs; beam behavior and IP rating for the floods. The third filter was upgrade path. Systems that let you start small — one room, one roofline section — and add later without replacing a hub or re-running cable scored higher than systems that lock you into a single proprietary controller with no expansion. Finally, each pick had to answer a real situation: a whole house, a tight budget, an interior remodel, or a yard that gets hosed down regularly.

1. SikSog 4-Inch RGBCW Recessed Downlight – Best for Indoor Color Scenes

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#1 Pick

SikSog Smart Recessed Lighting 4 Inch RGBCW Color Changing 12W LED Downlight with Junction Box,1080 Lumen Recessed Ceiling Light Compatible with Alexa,Dimmable by Bluetooth Control -12Pack

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This is the fixture to start with if you want color scenes where you actually sit. A 4-inch recessed aperture is the most common residential can size in North America, which means the SikSog fits the holes that already exist in most ceilings from a previous remodel, or clips into drywall as a canless install if you are cutting fresh openings. The included junction box matters more than it sounds: it means the driver and wiring connections live in a proper enclosure rather than loose above the drywall, which is both easier to inspect later and the difference between a clean install and a code argument.

Key specs from the listing

• Aperture: 4 inches — matches the standard residential can size
• Power: 12 W per fixture
• Output: 1,080 lumens in white mode
• Color engine: RGBCW — red, green, blue plus dedicated cool and warm white channels
• Control: Wi-Fi with app-based scene creation, voice assistant compatible
• Included hardware: junction box

The RGBCW designation is the most important line in that list. Cheaper color fixtures are often RGB only, which means every “white” you see is actually three colored emitters blended together — it works, but it tends to look slightly tinted and cannot hold a clean 2700K warm white for everyday use. A fixture with a dedicated white channel set can run as an ordinary warm or neutral downlight all week and then switch to saturated color for a movie night or a party, which is what makes scene lighting worth installing in a living space rather than a novelty.

Strengths

At 12 watts and 1,080 lumens, the efficiency lands around 90 lumens per watt, which is solidly in modern LED territory and means a four-fixture room draws under 50 watts total. That is roughly the output of a 75-watt incandescent per fixture, so a 12-by-12-foot room with four of these produces about 4,300 lumens — enough for genuinely bright general lighting, not just accent glow. Because each fixture is independently addressable in the app, you can build zones: two cans over a kitchen island at 4000K task white, the other four at 2700K ambient, and a separate “movie” scene that drops everything to deep blue at 20 percent.

Scenes are the reason to buy these rather than ordinary dimmable cans. A saved scene recalls color, brightness and white temperature for a group in one tap, and most apps let you attach a schedule or a sunrise/sunset trigger so exterior-adjacent rooms shift automatically. The junction box inclusion also shortens install time noticeably compared with fixtures that require a separate housing and a trim ring.

Pros

• RGBCW engine keeps everyday white light clean instead of tinted
• Standard 4-inch size fits existing residential cans
• Junction box included, simplifying wiring and inspection
• No hub required — joins a 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network directly
• Scales cheaply: buy four now, add four later, same app and scenes
• 12 W draw keeps a whole-room install under 50 W

Cons

• Wi-Fi-only control means it depends on your router staying healthy
• 1,080 lumens is generous for a bedroom and modest for a large open-plan kitchen, where you may need six to eight fixtures
• Recessed installs require cutting drywall or ceiling access, so it is not a renter-friendly option
• Saturated color output is a fraction of the white figure, as with every RGB fixture
• Per-fixture cost adds up once you are past a single room

How it compares

Against the AMURTH 100FT eave run, the choice is not really a competition — one lights ceilings, the other lights rooflines, and most whole-home color setups end up with both. The meaningful comparison is against buying more expensive hub-based recessed fixtures. A hub adds local reliability and faster scene recall, but it also adds a bridge to power and a second app to maintain, and for a single room the SikSog’s direct Wi-Fi approach is simpler with no real downside. If you later install six or more smart fixtures plus exterior runs and start noticing delayed scene recalls, that is the signal to move the lighting onto a hub or a Thread border router rather than a reason to have started there.

2. AMURTH 600FT RGB+IC Permanent Outdoor Lights – Best for Whole-House Eave Runs

#2 Pick

AMURTH 600FT Permanent Outdoor Lights RGB+IC Lights, IP67 Waterproof Smart Eave Lighting, with App/Remote Control Eaves Light, DIY LED Scenes Modes for House Roof Decor Party

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This is the flagship exterior option, and the 600-foot figure is the reason. A typical single-story home has roughly 150 to 250 feet of usable eave and soffit line; a two-story with gables, a porch and a garage can easily exceed 400. A 600-foot run means you are covering the whole house, both floors, with enough left over to double back on a porch beam or run a line along a fence cap — without splicing in a second kit from a different production batch, which is where color consistency problems usually begin.

Key specs from the listing

• Run length: 600 feet total
• Color technology: RGB+IC — individually addressable chips rather than whole-string color
• Weather rating: IP67
• Mounting: permanent eave/soffit installation
• Control: app-based scenes plus a physical remote

The RGB+IC designation is the single biggest functional difference between this and a conventional color string. On a standard RGB strip, every LED on the run shows the same color at the same time. With an IC (integrated circuit) chip at each addressable position, the controller can command individual segments, which is what produces gradients that fade from red at the front porch to blue at the garage, chasing effects that travel along the eave, and independent zones for different faces of the house. For permanent architectural lighting, addressability is the feature that separates a professional-looking install from a colored rope light.

Strengths

IP67 is a meaningful rating for permanent exterior mounting. It means the light string is dust-tight and protected against temporary immersion — the practical benefit being that a season of rain, sprinkler overspray and gutter overflow will not find its way into the emitter housing. The rating applies to the lighting itself; the controller, power supply and plug connections are separate components and are almost always rated lower, which is why every permanent outdoor install should treat the power brick and the first connector as the weak points and mount them under cover.

Long runs like this typically ship in multiple segments with connectors between them, and those connectors are both the mechanical and electrical weak link. They also mean power injection becomes a real design consideration: at 600 feet you should expect to use more than one power supply or injection point rather than daisy-chaining everything from a single brick, because voltage drop along a run that long shows up as the far end dimming and drifting toward warmer, duller color. Planning two or three injection points is the difference between an even run and a visibly uneven one.

App scene customization on an addressable system is where the daily value lives. Beyond simple color pickers, you get segment-level control, dynamic effects with adjustable speed, music-reactive modes, and schedules that fire at sunset. The physical remote is a genuine convenience rather than a gimmick — it lets a guest or a family member turn the exterior lights on without unlocking a phone, and it keeps working when the Wi-Fi is having a bad night.

Pros

• 600 feet covers a full two-story home with room to spare
• RGB+IC addressability enables gradients, chases and true zones
• IP67 rating suits permanent, year-round exterior mounting
• App scenes plus a physical remote covers both automation and manual control
• One system and one color batch across the entire house

Cons

• Premium tier — the largest single investment in this roundup
• Long runs need multiple power injection points to avoid dimming at the far end
• Segment connectors are the most likely failure point over years of weather cycling
• Addressable effects consume more power than a static single-color run
• Installation is a ladder-and-afternoon project, not a clip-on job

How it compares

Against the AMURTH 100FT, this is purely a question of scale. The 100-foot kit uses the same RGB+IC addressable approach and the same IP67 rating, so the color quality and app experience are equivalent — the difference is coverage and the electrical complexity that comes with it. If your roofline measures under about 90 feet of usable line, the 100-foot kit is the smarter buy, and you avoid the power-injection planning entirely. If you are lighting a whole house, buying two 100-foot kits to save money usually costs you more in the end: more controllers, more apps to pair, more connectors exposed to weather, and no guarantee the two kits share the same color calibration. Against the flood lights, this is the wrong tool for washing a wall or lighting a tree — eave lights draw a line, floods spread light.

3. AMURTH 100FT RGB+IC Permanent Outdoor Lights – Best for Budget Exterior Color

#3 Pick

AMURTH 100FT RGB+IC Permanent Outdoor Lights, IP67 Waterproof Smart Eave Lighting, App & Remote Control Eaves Light, DIY LED Scene Modes for House Roof Decor and Party

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The 100-foot version of the AMURTH permanent outdoor family is the pick for anyone whose roofline is modest, or who wants to test the whole idea before committing to a full-house run. A hundred feet covers the front elevation of a single-story ranch, a garage and porch, a single gable end, or a patio perimeter with a bit of planning. Because it is the same RGB+IC technology and the same IP67 rating as the 600-foot kit, you are not giving up color quality or weather resistance to hit the budget tier — you are giving up length.

Key specs from the listing

• Run length: 100 feet
• Color technology: RGB+IC addressable
• Weather rating: IP67
• Mounting: permanent eave installation
• Control: app scenes plus remote

At 100 feet, the electrical picture is far simpler. A run this length generally works from a single power supply without visible voltage drop, which removes the injection-point planning that the 600-foot kit requires. Installation is a straightforward run along the fascia or soffit, usually in one continuous pass, which cuts the ladder time substantially. For a first permanent outdoor lighting project, that simplicity is worth more than the extra coverage.

Strengths

Addressability at this price point is the standout feature. Most budget exterior lighting is a single-color-at-a-time strip, which means the whole house changes color together and dynamic effects are limited to fade and flash. With IC chips, this kit can run a gradient across the front of the house, animate a slow wave from one end to the other, or light the porch in warm white while the garage stays dark — all things a conventional strip cannot do. That capability is what most people actually picture when they think about color scene lighting outdoors.

The IP67 rating carries the same practical meaning here as on the larger kit: the lighting itself tolerates rain and temporary immersion, while the power supply and connectors remain the parts to protect. Mounting the brick under an eave, in a soffit void, or inside a weatherproof enclosure is the single highest-value step you can take for longevity, and it applies equally at 100 feet and 600 feet.

Scene setup follows the same pattern as the larger system: save static scenes for everyday use, build two or three dynamic scenes for holidays, and put everything on a sunset schedule so the lights come on without anyone thinking about it. Because the run is short, scene changes are visually uniform end to end — there is no far-end dimming to compensate for, which makes color matching easier to get right.

Pros

• Same RGB+IC addressability and IP67 rating as the flagship kit
• Single power supply is usually sufficient — no injection planning
• Budget tier makes it an easy first permanent exterior install
• One continuous run installs in a single afternoon
• Expandable if you later add a second kit for another elevation

Cons

• 100 feet runs out fast on a two-story or heavily gabled home
• Adding a second kit later risks a slight color calibration mismatch between batches
• Still a Wi-Fi app system, so it shares the reliability limits of any Wi-Fi-only setup
• Addressable effects draw more power than static color, which matters more on a single supply
• No coverage for landscape or ground-level features — it is a roofline product

How it compares

Against the AMURTH 600FT, this is a coverage decision and nothing else. Same chips, same rating, same app, same remote — the 600-foot kit wins on any house where the roofline exceeds 90 feet, and the 100-foot kit wins on simplicity, price and installation time. The honest test is to walk the house with a tape measure before ordering: measure the fascia line you want lit, add 10 to 15 percent for slack and corners, and buy the kit that clears that number in one piece. Against the Taptoron and MELPO floods, the comparison is about light shape. Eave lighting draws a continuous colored outline that reads as architectural trim; floods throw broad illumination across surfaces and are far better for lighting a driveway, a wall or a tree. Many complete exterior setups end up using both, with the eave run providing the outline and one or two floods providing the wash.

4. MELPO LED Flood Light Outdoor 800W Equivalent 8000LM RGB Landscape Lighting – Best for Landscape and Facade Color Wash

#4 Pick

MELPO LED Flood Light Outdoor 800W Equivalent 8000LM RGB Landscape Lighting

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Flood lights are the workhorses of exterior color lighting, and this MELPO unit is specified at the top of the residential range: an 800W incandescent-equivalent class output with an 8,000-lumen class figure and RGB color control. That is a very different proposition from an eave light. Where a roofline run draws a colored line, a flood throws a broad cone of light that washes a surface — a garage door, a stone facade, a fence, a large tree canopy, a driveway approach. If you have ever seen a house where the front wall glows a deep amber at night, that effect came from a flood, not a strip.

Key specs from the listing

• Output class: 800W incandescent equivalent
• Luminous output: 8,000-lumen class
• Color: RGB, app-controlled
• Intended use: landscape lighting
• Control: smart app-based scenes

It is worth being precise about what 8,000 lumens means in practice, because it is far more than most people need for decorative lighting. For comparison, a typical 4-inch recessed downlight in this roundup produces 1,080 lumens. One of these floods is roughly equivalent to seven of those fixtures concentrated into a single beam. Pointed at a two-story facade from 20 feet back, it will light the wall convincingly and spill into the yard. Pointed across a property line, it will light your neighbor’s bedroom, which is a real and common problem with floods in this output class.

Strengths

Color washing at this output level is genuinely dramatic. Saturated colors read clearly at distance, which is not true of low-output color fixtures — a dim color light on a dark wall just looks muddy, whereas 8,000 lumens of deep blue on a pale stucco wall is unmistakable from the street. For holiday color, event lighting, or making a specific architectural feature the focal point of the yard at night, the output class is the entire point.

Power draw is also worth understanding before purchase. An LED flood rated at an 800W incandescent equivalent typically draws somewhere in the range of 60 to 100 watts at the wall, depending on the driver’s efficiency — call it a twelfth of the incandescent figure it replaces. Run for five hours a night, that is roughly 0.3 to 0.5 kilowatt-hours per day, which in most markets works out to a few dollars a month per fixture. That is a manageable running cost for a fixture that lights a whole facade, and it is the main reason floods remain popular despite their output.

Mounting is usually a yoke or U-bracket, which allows the beam to be aimed precisely — important at this output, because a few degrees of tilt changes where the light lands by several feet at 20 feet of throw. Aiming is a two-person job in practice: one person at the fixture, one at the wall, adjusting until the hot spot sits where you want it.

Pros

• 8,000-lumen class output makes color readable at real distances
• 800W incandescent-equivalent class at roughly a tenth of the running cost
• Yoke mounting allows precise aiming
• App-controlled RGB scenes integrate with the rest of a smart lighting setup
• One unit covers a facade area that would take many small fixtures

Cons

• Output is easily excessive for small yards and close neighbors
• The listing name does not state an IP rating, so verify the enclosure rating before mounting it at grade
• Sealed flood housings run hot, and heat is the leading cause of driver failure in this category
• Colored output is a fraction of the white-mode figure, as with all RGB fixtures
• Hardwired or plug-in installation may need an outdoor-rated circuit or covered outlet

How it compares

Against the Taptoron flood, the two are in the same output class and the same price tier, so the decision comes down to two things: the enclosure rating and the specific mounting position. The Taptoron’s listing states IP66, which is dust-tight and protected against strong water jets — the right rating for a fixture sitting near grade under a sprinkler zone or below a gutter line. The MELPO listing emphasizes landscape lighting use without naming an IP rating in the product name, so if you plan to mount it low and exposed, confirm the enclosure rating first; if it is going under an eave or on a protected wall, the two are functionally similar and either will do the job. Against the eave-light kits, the split is coverage versus drama: floods give you a bright wash on a small number of surfaces, while a 100- or 600-foot eave run gives you an even colored outline across the entire roofline at much lower output per foot.

5. Taptoron LED Flood Light Outdoor 800W Equivalent Smart RGB IP66 Landscape Lighting – Best for Weather-Exposed Flood Positions

#5 Pick

LED Flood Light Outdoor 800W Equivalent Smart RGB IP66 Landscape Lighting

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This Taptoron flood is specified in the same output class as the MELPO — 800W incandescent equivalent, RGB color, smart control — with one addition that changes where you can safely put it: an IP66 rating stated directly in the product name. IP66 means the enclosure is dust-tight and protected against powerful water jets from any direction. It is not an immersion rating, but for a ground-mounted or low-wall-mounted fixture dealing with sprinklers, heavy rain, roof runoff and hose spray, it is exactly the rating you want.

Key specs from the listing

• Output class: 800W incandescent equivalent
• Color: RGB, smart app control
• Weather rating: IP66 — dust-tight and jet-water protected
• Intended use: landscape lighting
• Control layer: smart RGB app integration

The distinction between IP66 and IP67 comes up constantly in outdoor lighting and is worth settling. IP66 protects against strong directed water jets; IP67 protects against temporary immersion, typically tested at around one meter for thirty minutes. Neither rating is a license to submerge a fixture permanently, and neither rating covers the plug, the power brick or the cable connector — those are almost always rated lower. A flood light sitting in a garden bed with an IP66 housing and an IP44 connector is, in practice, as waterproof as that connector. Mount the brick up off the ground and inside a covered enclosure, and the rating on the housing is what does the work.

Strengths

Placement flexibility is the whole case for this fixture. Because the enclosure tolerates directed water, it can go where decorative color lighting is most effective — low in a planting bed aimed upward at a tree, at the base of a wall aimed across a facade, beside a driveway aimed down the approach. Ground-level placement is where floods look best and where the least-protected fixtures fail fastest, so paying for the rating is a durability decision as much as a safety one.

Output in the 800W-equivalent, 8,000-lumen class is the same story as the MELPO: far more than decorative use requires, and best deployed one or two at a time rather than in a row. Two units aimed to overlap will wash a 40- to 50-foot facade run convincingly, and adding a third usually just adds spill and glare. If your yard is small, aim the beam tighter and lower the brightness in the app rather than buying a smaller fixture — the same unit at 20 percent is still bright enough for accent use and gives you the headroom for holiday scenes.

Smart RGB control means this fixture participates in the same scenes and routines as the rest of the house. A single “evening” scene can drop the interior downlights to warm white and bring the yard floods up to a soft amber at the same moment, and a “holiday” scene can push everything to saturated red and green. Voice assistants can trigger those scenes by name, though as with all color systems the voice layer handles on, off, brightness and basic color commands far better than it handles custom multi-zone scenes — those live in the app or in an automation.

Pros

• IP66 rating stated in the listing name makes it suitable for low, exposed mounting
• 8,000-lumen class output handles facade and tree lighting at distance
• Smart RGB control integrates with app scenes and voice routines
• High output per unit means fewer fixtures and less cable to run
• Same output class as the MELPO but with a stated enclosure rating

Cons

• Overpowered for small yards unless dimmed heavily in the app
• IP66 is not an immersion rating — do not mount it in a spot that floods
• High-output floods generate significant heat, which shortens driver life in sealed housings
• Colored output is well below the white-mode figure
• Glare management matters — an unshielded 8,000-lumen flood at eye level is unpleasant

How it compares

Against the MELPO, the deciding factor is where the fixture is going. If it is going low, near grade, in a sprinkler zone or under a drip line, the stated IP66 rating makes the Taptoron the safer pick and the one less likely to need replacing in three years. If it is going under an eave or on a protected wall where water exposure is incidental, the MELPO is the equivalent choice and the two can be treated as interchangeable in output and control. Against the AMURTH eave runs, the split is entirely about light shape: the eave kits produce a continuous colored outline at low output per foot across hundreds of feet, while the floods produce a bright, concentrated wash on a handful of surfaces. A yard with a lit facade and a colored roofline typically needs both, and they are complementary rather than competing purchases.

Hub, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth: What the Control Layer Actually Changes

The control layer is the part of a smart lighting purchase that buyers underestimate most. Two systems with identical lumens and identical color quality can behave completely differently depending on whether they connect straight to your router, through a dedicated hub, or over Bluetooth to your phone. The differences show up in scene recall speed, reliability at scale, whether anything works when the internet goes down, and how much hardware you need to buy beyond the lights themselves.

Two practical points follow from that table. First, the Wi-Fi ceiling is real but rarely hit in a single-room install. If you are putting four downlights in a basement, direct Wi-Fi is the correct answer and a hub is unnecessary complexity. If you are planning eight interior fixtures, two exterior runs and a handful of smart plugs, you are adding twenty-plus clients to a network that also carries phones, laptops and televisions, and that is where people start noticing lights that respond slowly or drop off after a router reboot. Second, Wi-Fi-only lighting depends on the router. A router restart, a band-steering change, or a firmware update that moves devices between 2.4 and 5 GHz bands can take lights offline until they re-pair. Hubs and Thread border routers keep scenes local, which is why a whole-home setup eventually migrates there.

There is also a practical setup detail that trips up a large share of Wi-Fi lighting installs: these devices almost always require a 2.4 GHz network, and many modern routers publish a single merged SSID for both bands. If pairing fails repeatedly, the usual fix is to split the bands into separate network names in the router settings, pair the lights to the 2.4 GHz name, and leave them there. It is a five-minute change that resolves a disproportionate number of “it will not connect” complaints.

How to Choose

Work through the criteria in this order and most of the decision makes itself. The sequence matters because each step eliminates options before you spend time comparing features that no longer apply.

Step 1: Decide whether you are lighting a ceiling or an exterior surface

This is the fork in the road. Recessed downlights produce general illumination for a room and double as color accents. Eave runs produce a colored outline along a roofline. Floods produce a bright wash on a surface. If your goal is “the living room should feel like a